Contact us Directions Shop Home Photographs


Here you will find some newspaper articles featuring the Keltic Kitchen. Click here for the USA Today article.

From the Cape Cod Times March 12, 2008 By ELSPETH PIERSON, CONTRIBUTING WRITER

Dublin-born David Dempsey is a strong believer in the power of a hearty breakfast.

"The French live to eat, and the Irish eat to live," he explains in tribute to his roots.

As the saying implies, the owner and chef of Yarmouth's Keltic Kitchen came to the United States in the early 1980s to live, not to cook. But a job washing dishes at Cape Cod Irish Village led to a position working food prep and then to a promotion to fry cook. "That's how I learned to cook," he says.

Today, he turns out hundreds of home-style breakfasts every morning.

The restaurateur's home country has had a profound influence on his tastes.

"When I grew up, people shopped every day at neighborhood stores - the local butcher, vegetable stands. Bread was delivered fresh daily, and my mother went to the fish market every Friday," he says.

Simple fare based on the Irish staples of meat, potatoes and vegetables is a signature of the Keltic Kitchen menu. Features like the Irish Farmhouse Breakfast - two eggs, Irish sausage, rashers (cured pork loins, also called Irish bacon), black and white pudding (boiled rings of sausage and barley), mushrooms, tomatoes and home fries - rely on this traditional formula to feed even the heartiest of American appetites.

One of Dempsey's favorite recipes is his twist on the Irish tradition of boxty cakes, or Irish potato griddle cakes.

"On Sundays in Ireland, everyone sits down to rolls and mashed potatoes and roast potatoes and vegetables," he says. "Come Monday or Tuesday, we take whatever is left over, mash it, and fry it into cakes on the griddle."

The English, he says, call the cakes "bubble and squeak," after the noises they make in the pan. While Dempsey doesn't use leftovers to re-create the tradition, he does have a stack of boxty-style potato pancakes on the menu.

Irish-American creations like corn beef hash also appear on the menu. "That's not very traditional," says Dempsey. "It's more of an American invention."

Another favorite is black-and-white pudding — the boiled and fried sausage dish the restaurant serves as a side

"In Ireland, every butcher has his own recipe," Dempsey explains. "In the countryside, people keep a couple of pigs and make it themselves at home." Pork scraps saved from other cuts of the pig are mixed with barley, packed into cases, and tied into rings. Black pudding is darkened with the animal's blood. Once boiled, the rings are sliced and fried into a sizzling, full-flavor side.

While Dempsey doesn't make his own, he does import his black and white puddings from Ireland. The Keltic Kitchen rashers and Irish sausage are also imported, along with tea and beans. Dempsey bakes brown bread every morning in 12-loaf batches.

Although Dempsey likes to stick with tradition, he says that Irish food is changing. As Ireland's economy has improved, its cuisine has grown more gourmet and multinational.

"There's not so much of a difference now between Irish and American food," he notes. "It's become a multinational mini melting pot."

Times have changed in other ways since Dempsey left Ireland in the early 1980s to escape an unemployment rate of almost 22 percent.

"There was no future for young people in the country," he says. "I thought I'd come to America to see what was going on."

Now, he says, opportunity in Ireland is much better, with fewer and fewer Irish immigrating to the Cape each year.

Still, Irish accents are common among the wait staff, some of whom are students on a visa and others who visited for a summer and decided to stay. And despite falling immigration rates, there are plenty of Irish-Americans living in the area.

With Saint Patrick's Day on the horizon, Dempsey is hard at work on a new batch of Irish specials. He shares a few of his recipes here:


This soup gets its flavor from the meats, so choose high-grade or imported Irish meats for best results.

Dublin Coddle

Serves 6

4 large onions, roughly chopped

6 large potatoes, quartered

1 pound rashers

1 pound Irish sausage

1 quart chicken stock

4 tablespoons chopped parsley

In a large pot, combine all ingredients. Bring to a boil and let simmer for about 2 hours. Continue simmering to thicken, if desired. If you like, add ground black pepper to suit your taste. Serve with brown bread or good crusty white bread.

Brown Soda Bread

3 cups white flour

1 cup wheat flour

1 level tablespoon of baking soda

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon cream of tartar

Pinch of salt

1/2 cup oatmeal

1/2 to 1 cup buttermilk

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Sift all dry ingredients, except oatmeal, into a large mixing bowl:

Add 1/2 cup oatmeal for texture. Add 1/2 to 1 cup of buttermilk slowly until you have a loose dough. Be careful not to overmix, as the gluten in the flour will break down and result in a dense loaf.

Place dough in a greased bread tin or round skillet and sprinkle with oatmeal. Score a cross in the dough and bake for about 1 hour; time will differ depending on your oven. Stick a knife into the bread; if it comes out clean it is done.

This dish is mostly made with leftovers from Saturday or Sunday dinner. The English named it for the noise it makes when cooking.

Bubble And Squeak

Mix any left over veggies with mashed potatoes. Add salt and pepper, a little flour, and 2 beaten eggs. Mix all the ingredients in a large bowl. Make little cakes with the mix. To thicken, add more flour or mashed potatoes. If the cakes are not sticking, add another egg to hold together. Cook in a hot greased skillet until golden brown on each side.

January 26 2008.

This is the entire article. Click here to jump to the Keltic Kitchen.

Here is a link to the original story.

10 great places to start your day sunny side up

Now here's an eye-opener: January is "Resolve to Eat Breakfast Month." So, before the month is out, we asked Eddy Chavey, food historian, breakfast expert and creator of a website dedicated to his passion for the most important meal of the day (, to share his favorite places with Kathy Baruffi for USA TODAY.

Ken's House of Pancakes / Hilo, Hawaii
"Open 24 hours a day, Ken's is very popular among breakfast lovers on the Big Island of Hawaii. The menu features multiple variations of a signature Hawaiian dish called Loco Moco, a beef patty, gravy and an egg over rice. If you order the largest version, called the Sumo Moco, the staff will all yell 'Sumo!' " Chavey says. "Also try the homemade coconut syrup on their Hawaiian-style pancakes."

Pete's Kitchen / Denver
From the guy walking in off the street to the couple arriving by limousine, customers come from all over Denver to slide into the cozy tan booths of this Greek diner. "Open 24 hours, 7 days a week, all year long, this is the place to grab breakfast after a long night of partying," Chavey says. "Their breakfast burritos, smothered in chili, are the best in town."

The Flying Biscuit Cafe / Atlanta
"For a healthy, hearty breakfast served all day and the fluffiest biscuits you'll get anywhere, try this hip restaurant in the Candler Park community of Atlanta," Chavey says. "Biscuits and gravy or biscuits with their own homemade cranberry-apple butter are the don't-miss items on the menu." Feast on organic oatmeal pancakes topped with warm peach compote, then visit galleries and shops in the nearby Little Five Points district. Flying Biscuit also has five other locations.

Keltic Kitchen / West Yarmouth, Mass.
Children who grew up feasting at this Cape Cod cottage near Nantucket Sound now bring their own families here to sit in the seats they call their own. "Come for a traditional Irish breakfast, including black-and-white pudding (aka blood sausage), brown bread, beans and thick Irish bacon. Expect to hear some Irish accents; a lot of customers come here to get a taste of home," Chavey says.

Saddle Ranch Chop House / West Hollywood, Calif.
"Watch fellow brunchers ride the mechanical bull while you enjoy huge portions of steak and eggs," Chavey says. "The building and décor are right out of a 1930s cowboy movie — an unlikely gem in the middle of the glitz and glam of the L.A. Sunset Strip." From 8 a.m. to 3 p.m., serious slingers can down Bottomless Bloody Marys and mimosas. Campfires are aglow outdoors for everyone to make s'mores. This is one of two Saddle Ranches in metro Los Angeles.

The Breakfast Klub / Houston
When Beyoncé visits her hometown, this is where she and Jay-Z come for breakfast. "Known for the combinations of Wings & Waffles and Katfish & Grits, it's the best place for a traditional Southern-style breakfast in Houston," Chavey says. "They also have the best cheese grits west of the Mississippi." The jazzy red, yellow and orange walls match the music played here. The day starts with gospel music and eases into jazz. On Saturdays, you can sing along to oldies.

Good Enough to Eat / New York
Chefs come here for breakfast because everything, from the dill onion bread to the sausage, is homemade. "You get a comfortable vibe when you see their white picket fence on the busy Upper West Side. It's a cool, relaxing joint to get a hometown-style breakfast," Chavey says. "The Gramercy Park omelet, made with apple slices and Vermont cheddar, is a standout. Go on a weekday to avoid the long weekend lines."

Cadillac Cafe / Portland, Ore.
"The pink '61 Cadillac on display in this restaurant is an attraction for some, but it's the thick hazelnut-crusted French toast and the Bunkhouse Vittles Sampler (chicken-apple sausages, seasoned fried potatoes, eggs and a slice of hazelnut French toast) that are the real draw," Chavey says. After you feel fortified, walk over to Lloyd Center for some serious shopping or an exhilarating workout at the Lloyd Center Ice Rink.

Café Du Monde / New Orleans
"This historic French Quarter coffee shop, unscathed during Hurricane Katrina, was closed for two months after the storm due to lack of water or power," Chavey says. "It offers up the best beignets in the nation. They are simply fried dough covered with powdered sugar. The café also serves up notoriously smooth chicory coffee." Tables are set up under a huge green-and-white awning in the first building of the French Market. This is the original Café Du Monde, which has expanded to six other locations in or around New Orleans.

Pancake Pantry / Nashville
You may have to wait in line, but it's worth the time to get inside for a Southern welcome that feels like home, Chavey says. "Their sweet-potato pancakes are highly recommended, and a new item, the Southwest cornmeal pancake, has just been added to the menu. Be sure to order the traditional buttermilk pancakes or French toast just so you can try their homemade cinnamon syrup." Shop at Posh and other trendy shops while here in the Hillsboro Village neighborhood.